| It is well known that the factory batteries in Infiniti vehicles have short life spans. While Infiniti should address this issue with their
supplier, every G owner should be aware that they will probably need to replace it within the first 3 years. My 2007 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan needed a new battery at just under 3 years and my
2008 G37 Sport Coupe lasted just 2.5 years. The information below is the step by step process for performing a battery swap. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being difficult, I give this one a 5
only because the battery can be heavy...ok, how about a 4?
|
Tools needed: Small flat head screwdriver, 10mm wrench, ratchet with 10mm deep well socket, cutters, flashlight (optional)
|
|
 |
Step 1: Remove the Battery Cover
The battery is located in the upper-left corner of the engine bay and covered via a panel. To
remove the panel you simply press in the two front clips and lift from the front. Set the battery cover to the side.
|
|
 |
Step 2: Remove Front Trim
The front trim around the battery needs to be removed next. The trim is held on with 5 "pop clips" as shown
in the first image to the left. To remove the clips, take the small flat-head screw driver and gently pry the center section up. DO NOT use excessive force. The center will slide up appx 1/4"
which will allow the clip to be removed. It may take a bit of wiggling and turning but they should come out. Set them to the side. At this point the trim can be removed as seen in the second
image to the left. Remove and set aside.
|
|
 |
Step 3a: Remove rear trim clips
Next, the back trim needs to be removed. This requires the removal of two "pop clips" as shown in the picture. One is
on the back firewall and the other is next to the fender, just past the weather strip molding. Use the picture to the left for locations
|
|
 |
Step 3b: Remove Rear Battery Trim
This is the trim around the windshield with the air vents. Using the small flat head screwdriver,
disengage the fastener as indicated via the red arrow in the top image by pushing the head into the gap, pushing down lightly, and pulling the left hand trim panel forward to disengage. You will
notice the rubber weatherstrip is not attached in that area.
Next, as indicated via the blue arrow in the bottom image, pull that left side section forward and then at an angle. You will need to lift the edge over the fender weather stripping (as mentioned in
step 3a). When removed you can move it out of the way. Realize, it is still attached via the weather stripping so you cannot remove it completely (as shown in the photo).
|
|
 |
Step 4: Remove Battery
Using the ratchet with deep-socket 10mm, loosen the back nut on the batter tie-down until it is almost all the way off. The rod the
bolt is on is appx 1.5" long a hook on the end (red arrow in 2nd picture). With the nut most of the way off you should be able to push down, while twisting, to get the rod out of it's anchor spot.
Once loose, you can start to loosen the other nut. Only loosen this one enough to allow you to twist the battery bar out of the way and free the battery. This rod also has a "J" on the end similar
to the first but it is far longer and somewhat of a pain to get rehooked should it come free. In my case, it came free and I set it all to the side.
At this point, using the 10mm wrench, remove the negative and positive battery terminals and set them to the side.
NOTE: If you have a battery trickle charger you can connect this to the terminals to keep a small charge to the vehicle. Doing such will avoid possible window memory issues when replacing the battery.
Additionally, simply using jumper cables from another vehicle (running is not necessary) will do the same. Thanks to Peter for this tip!
|
|
 |
Step 5: Install New Battery
Remove the old battery and put the new battery in. Make sure you have
the right battery and it's installed properly. You don't want to attach the terminals backward as that would be quite an expensive mistake. Use some form of cutting tool (or heavy duty
scissors) to cut the carry handle off the battery.
|
|
 |
Step 6: Finish Installation
To complete the installation you will follow the above steps in reverse order. The last thing you
want to do is attach the negative battery terminal so reinstall the battery strap, then the positive terminal connection, then the back trim, followed by the front trim. Be careful and don't force
the trim pieces as you don't want to break anything. Finally, reconnect the negative terminal and battery cover. Test the car.
|
|
 |
Alternative Step 6a: Front Strap Hook Is Out
So, like me, the long rod on the front came loose and you are having a hard
time getting it hooked again with the battery installed. In front of the battery is a black box which is in the way and mounted to a metal bracket. Using the small flat head screwdriver, press
the tab as indicated via the red arrow and wiggle the box free. There is not much "play" but there is enough where it can be moved out of the way somewhat to give more room to hook
the front tie down rod. When finished reinstalling the battery tie down, make sure you snap the black box back onto its mount.
|
|
| NOTE: After connecting the battery I ran across a problem with the power windows. If one window goes down and won't come back up you will need
to disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal, the follow the Power Window Reset Procedures.
|
Disclaimer: The author will not be held responsible nor held liable for any damages due to these instructions. Anyone following
these directions are doing so at their own risk. This Documentation may not be distributed without the authors consent.
|
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
;)
